Artichokes

Cynara scolymus

Spaniards, Italians, Moroccans, and Middle Easterners must often be bewildered (and disappointed) by the barrenness of artichoke choices in a typical American grocery store, which usually features exactly one type—the ubiquitous, enormous Green Globe. In other cultures, especially those of the Mediterranean, artichokes come in all sorts of delightful sizes and colors; some are so small and tender that they can be eaten raw. The other way that Americans know artichokes are as hearts, either canned or in jars, usually relegated as fancy appetizers tinged with a faint air of aristocracy. It’s a shame, because artichokes can be so much more.

When we dine on artichokes, we are actually eating the flower buds of a very large thistle. Although thistles in themselves are edible, it’s understandable that few people desire them outside of artichokes and their close sibling, the cardoon, which is treasured for its huge, celery-like stalks. Not many items are more delightful (and seasonal) than artichokes, which are at their best between March and May. California grows virtually 100 percent of the US artichoke crop in a narrow area around Monterey and Castroville, whose coastal fog, cool summers, and mild winters provide ideal growing conditions. Castroville, in fact, proclaims itself the Artichoke Center of the World.

Occasionally specialty and farmers markets carry so-called baby artichokes, which are often about the size of a small egg and may be dark purple or wine-red in color. These are not actually babies but entirely different varieties from Italy and France, or just younger, smaller specimens of the Green Globe variety.

Artichokes sometimes get a bad rap because they contain cynarin, which is not in itself sweet but acts chemically on our tongues to temporarily make certain foods taste sweeter. Wine pairings can be particularly problematic, but a knowledgeable cook or sommelier can actually work this to their advantage by serving dry champagne or Italian Barbera. Also, artichokes go well with foods that benefit from a touch of sweetness, like spicy curries or bitter greens.

History

The exact origins of artichokes are hazy at best, according to food historian Waverly Root, but it is likely that the plant came from the Mediterranean, possibly Sicily or North Africa. It is perhaps one of the oldest cultivated food plants, noted as far back as 500 bce. European aristocracy ate it for centuries, but after the fall of Rome the plant was largely forgotten until Catherine de Medici, the Italian wife of King Henry II, reintroduced the artichoke to France in the mid-16th century. Her gluttonous, public love for artichokes was scandalous, as women at that time were not allowed to eat foods considered to be aphrodisiacs.

But happily artichokes soon returned as a popular vegetable for both sexes. In the 1920s, Italian immigrants started growing artichokes in the northern California town of Half Moon Bay, near Castroville. Soon they were supplying a curious American public with exotic thistle buds, thus giving birth to the massive California artichoke industry.

Nutrition

Artichokes are low in calories (a medium one has about 128) and are an excellent source of dietary fiber (no surprise to anyone who has ever plucked stray strands caught between the teeth). They also contain significant amounts of folate, vitamins C and K, and various antioxidants. Artichokes are also rich in minerals: copper, calcium, potassium, iron, manganese, and phosphorus.

Season

Green Globe artichokes grown in California have two seasons. The biggest is from March to May; another smaller crop is harvested from October to January.

Selection

Regardless of their variety, artichokes should be heavy for their size with tightly packed centers and firm stems. A sign of freshness is a distinctive squeak when squeezed; flabby ones are much quieter. Watch for signs of dehydration in the stems and pointy edges on the bracts (petals). Purple, brown, or even blistered areas on the big Green Globe variety indicate the artichoke was exposed to colder temperatures (“winter kissed”); these tend to be sweeter and tastier, so don’t consider them a sign of bad quality.

Storage

On the outside, artichokes seem to be pretty hardy vegetables and can appear capable of being kept for weeks. However, they lose flavor as time goes on and should be used as soon as possible after purchase. To store them, slice off the ends of their stems and wrap them unwashed in a damp paper towel inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator vegetable crisper.

Trimming and Cleaning

Artichokes do require careful trimming to make the most of their delectable attributes, much more so than most vegetables. As Elizabeth Schneider says in her book Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini, don’t be afraid of being ruthless in the trimming process—the goal is for the vegetable to cook evenly and be tender throughout, not necessarily to maximize quantity. But don’t let the preparation discourage you; the end result will be well worth it.

First, clean the artichokes by rinsing them thoroughly in lukewarm water or submerging them in a full sink while prying open the petals.

Decide first how much stem to remove. Because the stem is an extension of the choicest part (the bottom section, where the inner heart and fuzzy “choke” are located, you may not want to trim it excessively. But because the stem’s core can taste bitter, sample it first. If you are serving artichokes whole for stuffing purposes, trim their stems as closely as possible to their bases so that the artichokes sit flat on the plate.

The next step will depend on whether you are serving them whole or using just the bottoms.

If you’re serving them whole, snap off the first two or three layers of the outer bracts. Then slice off the top quarter or third of the artichoke. Finally, using kitchen scissors, trim off the tiny sharp tip of each exposed bract.

If you want to extract the hearts, snap off the bracts until only the yellow-green core remains. Slice off the top third of the artichoke. Now you can pare the stem or snap it off and trim the base. Scrape off the choke, which is the layer of fuzzy fibers. What remains is the tender, pale-yellow heart.

If you want just the bottoms, follow the same trimming procedures as for the hearts, but slice off the entire cone and break off the stems, leaving just the rounded artichoke bottom. Scrape out the fuzzy choke with a melon ball cutter or grapefruit spoon. You can leave the bottoms whole or cut up as needed.

Dealing with the chokes: The actual choke part is the fine layer of velvety fuzz that sits atop the heart, exposed when all of the inner bracts are removed or pulled back. In larger artichokes, these chokes are divine to stroke with a finger (it feels like the softest fur), but it’s most unpleasant if stray fuzzies get caught in the back of your throat, where they incessantly tickle and indeed make you feel like you’re choking. During the trimming process, remove them by scraping them out thoroughly with a melon ball cutter or a grapefruit spoon. In smaller or baby artichokes, the chokes are fine to eat.

Cut artichokes dramatically discolor when exposed to air and other environmental conditions.

Steaming and Boiling

Steam whole trimmed artichokes by setting them stem-end up on a steamer rack over boiling water for 30 to 45 minutes, depending on their size. To add subtle flavor, you can season the water with lemongrass, ginger, garlic, and herbs.

Alternatively, boil whole trimmed artichokes in salted water to which about 2 tablespoons of lemon juice have been added for every quart of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 25 to 40 minutes, depending on the size (you can test by piercing the stem or base with a knife or toothpick; if it enters easily, they are likely done). Invert to drain, then serve promptly.

Stir-Frying and Sautéing

Unless they are very small baby specimens, artichokes generally must be precooked or blanched before being thrown into the sauté pan or wok. Once they have been precooked, they can be stir-fried or sautéed for an additional 5 to 10 minutes, depending on their size.

Baking and Roasting

Roasting is a great way to prepare artichokes, a delicious alternative to the usual boiling or steaming because the roasting process concentrates the flavors of the artichoke flesh. Trim whole artichokes as instructed above, then cut them in half lengthwise. (Don’t worry about removing the fuzzy chokes at this point—they are far easier to scoop out after the artichokes are cooked.) Fit them together as closely as possible in the pan (six Green Globe halves will fit in a 9-by-13-inch pan). Pour in 1 to 2 tablespoons of oil per artichoke as well as finely chopped herbs if desired, roll the artichokes in the oil, and place them cut-side down. Bake in a 375°F oven until the artichoke bottoms are tender when pierced with a knife, 40 to 50 minutes.

Microwaving

I find microwaving artichokes to be the fastest and easiest way to cook them. If you’re preparing a single artichoke, place it in a glass bowl with ¼ cup water, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon olive oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and cook on high power for 6 to 7 minutes, or until the bottom of the artichoke can be easily pierced with a knife. I also get good results by just wrapping the entire artichoke in plastic wrap and microwaving without the dish. If you’re preparing two artichokes, cook on high power for 7 to 10 minutes. In either case, let them stand for about 5 minutes after cooking.

Blanching and Freezing

Artichokes must be blanched or precooked before freezing; they should not be frozen raw, or they will turn brown and their taste will deteriorate considerably. There are several methods for doing this; the California Artichoke Advisory Board website (www.artichokes.org) has complete instructions, but here is one method: Trim the tops from the artichokes and rub the cut surfaces with lemon. Cook the artichokes in water to which a little lemon juice has been added; simmer only until al dente (about 20 minutes). Remove, turn upside down, and drain thoroughly. Then place the whole artichokes upside down on a tray and freeze them quickly in the coldest part of the freezer. Package the artichokes in zipper-lock freezer or vacuum food sealer-type bags, or freezer containers. Frozen artichokes will keep for up to 6 months at 0°F.

To thaw and finish cooking, wrap each frozen artichoke in aluminum foil, sealing tightly. Place them on a rack above boiling water. Cover and steam them until they are hot and cooked through.

Equivalents, Measures, and Servings

• One 9-ounce box frozen = one 8-ounce jar = one 14-ounce can = hearts from 6 fresh artichokes

Complementary Herbs, Seasonings, and Foods

Anchovies, arugula, asparagus, bay, beef, black pepper, butter, capers, cheese (goat, Parmesan, ricotta), chervil, cilantro, eggs, endive, fennel, hazelnut oil, honey, garlic, grapefruit, ham, Jerusalem artichokes, lamb, leeks, lemons, mayonnaise, mushrooms, olives, olive oil, onions, oranges, oregano, parsley, pasta, peas, potatoes, prosciutto, rosemary, shallots, tarragon, thyme, tuna, vinaigrette, walnuts, walnut oil.

Serving Suggestions

• Add cooked hearts or fried whole baby artichokes to stir-fries and pasta dishes.
• Fry up whole baby artichokes until tender on the inside and crispy on the outside.
• Artichokes can be fun for kids because they are the ultimate finger food! Individual leaves are great for dipping into butter and sauces.
• Although a bit labor-intensive, stuffed artichokes make a stunning dish for fancy occasions and can be truly delicious. Typical stuffing includes breadcrumbs, garlic, oregano, parsley, grated cheese, and prosciutto or sausage. Seasoned couscous is also a tasty vegetarian alternative. Push the mixture into the spaces at the base of each leaf and the hollowed-out center before steaming or baking.
• Who could forget artichokes and dip? Often artichokes themselves are made into dip, but the petals make perfect scoops. Creamy or mustard-based dips are quite tasty with artichokes, as is a good hollandaise sauce.

How to Eat an Artichoke

Most fruits and vegetables are pretty straightforward as to how to eat them. Artichokes, however, can be a bit intimidating for a first-timer. Serve larger artichokes whole, either hot or cold. To eat, pull off the outer petals one at a time, and dip the base of the petal into sauce or melted butter. Pull the petal between your teeth to remove the soft, pulpy portion at the base. Discard the remainder of the petal, and continue until all the petals have been removed. Now you’re left with the best part—the succulent inner heart. With a spoon, scoop out the fuzzy choke and discard. The remainder of the artichoke is completely edible, and can be cut into pieces and dipped into sauce.

Baby artichokes are completely edible—no need to scoop out the fuzzy chokes inside.

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Pork and Baby Artichoke Sauté with Apple Brandy

Serves 4

1 large lemon
1½ pounds (16 to 20) baby artichokes
4 ounces (one stick) butter
1 pound pork loin, cut into ½-inch slices (called scallops)
1 large, firm apple, peel on, cut into medium dice
3 green onions, thinly sliced
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves
¼ cup apple brandy, preferably Calvados
½ cup chicken stock
Salt
Sage sprigs, for garnish

1. Squeeze the lemon and add the juice to a large bowl of cold water. Drop in the lemon halves.
2. Wash the artichokes. Remove the outer leaves until pale green leaves appear; trim off the stems and top quarter of each artichoke. Cut the artichokes lengthwise into halves and drop into the lemon water to preserve the color. Set aside.
3. Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add half of the butter. Sauté the pork scallops until lightly browned; remove from the pan and keep warm.
4. Add the remaining butter to the pan (the butter is not just used for sautéing—it will eventually become part of the sauce). Place the artichoke halves, cut-side down, in the pan and sauté for 5 minutes.
5. Add the apples and cook until just tender. Add the onions, garlic, chopped sage, and Calvados; toss together 1 minute.
6. Add the chicken stock and cook until the artichokes are tender and the stock has mostly evaporated. Season to taste with salt.
7. Arrange the pork scallops on heated serving plates with the baby artichoke mixture and a little sauce. Garnish with sage sprigs.

— California Artichoke Advisory Board

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Lemon Artichoke Soup

Serves 4

4 medium to large artichokes with stems, cooked
¼ cup long-grain white rice
5½ cups chicken or vegetable broth
3 eggs
2 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Remove the petals and fuzzy centers from the cooked artichokes; cut the bottoms into ¼-inch cubes.
2. In a saucepan, simmer the rice in the broth for about 20 minutes, or until tender.
3. When the rice is done, add the cubed artichokes to the broth.
4. Whisk together the eggs and lemon juice.
5. Take out about 1½ cups of the hot broth and drizzle it into the egg mixture, whisking constantly. This tempers the eggs so they won’t curdle. Pour this mixture back into the saucepan, still whisking.
6. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the soup thickens slightly. Do not boil once the eggs have been added, or the soup will separate.
7. Season with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice if desired.

— California Artichoke Advisory Board

From Bounty from the Box: The CSA Farm Cookbook, by Mi Ae Lipe