Brassica oleracea, Acephala Group
In the years since I wrote the first edition of this cookbook, kale has gone from being a largely ignored vegetable in the American kitchen to a darling of the organic food and restaurant scene. How times have changed. That is a terrific thing, and not just because it is one of the most nutritionally packed vegetables in existence. Kale is amazingly versatile, with the lovely trait of retaining its texture and earthy, nutty flavor even when cooked for long periods. Hardy kale loves cold weather, and it becomes sweeter after a frost.
Your CSA boxes may contain one of three different kales: Winterbor (a green, curly kale), Lacinato (a flat, bluish leafy green, also called dinosaur kale, an heirloom variety), and Redbor, which has beautiful red greens. All three varieties can be prepared the same way and share similar nutritional values.
Because of its coarse texture, kale is not pleasant to eat raw in salads, unless its leaves are very small and young; it can be quite prickly in the mouth and tough to chew. Raw kale is best finely shredded in a slaw or as baby leaves; specimens any larger or older should be cooked.
Kale has long been a favorite of the Scots, who likely eat more of it than any other ethnic group, but the Danish and Germans favor it too.
History
Some people believe that kale is actually wild cabbage and that it may be the ancestor to all of our modern cabbage varieties. Kale is a hardy and hearty green that humans have cultivated for over 2,000 years. It is particularly popular in Scotland, whose cold, damp climate provides ideal growing conditions for this sturdy plant. In the United States, kale is mostly eaten in the South, where, along with collards and turnip leaves, it forms the famous, savory, long-cooked “mess o’ greens.”
Nutrition
Few vegetables are as nutrient-rich as kale. A 1-cup serving contains staggering amounts of vitamins A, C, and K, as well as manganese, dietary fiber, copper, B vitamins, potassium, iron, calcium, phosphorus, and vitamin E, all for only 36 calories. Like other members of the Brassica family, kale packs huge amounts of phytonutrients that are believed to have anticancer properties. It is also a rich source of the carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin, which are known to promote eye health.
Season
Commercially, kale is widely grown and available year-round. But it really comes into its best at farmers markets and CSAs from October through the first (or even second) frost.
Selection
Choose kale that is fresh looking, crisp, and evenly colored; yellowing or spotted leaves indicate advanced age or poor storage. Smaller leaves will be sweeter and more tender than larger ones.
Storage
Kale leaves should not be stored for too long, as their moisture content makes them susceptible to rot and wilting. Kale also tends to become bitter the longer it is stored. Wrap the leaves in a damp paper towel and store them in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator vegetable crisper, where they will keep for up to 1 week. Avoid washing until you’re ready to use them.
Trimming and Cleaning
Kale’s finely curled, crimped leaves provide perfect hiding places for aphids and other insects. The easiest way to flush unwanted critters out is to fill a sink with water and submerge the leaves completely, swishing them back and forth vigorously before draining them in a colander. Rinse and repeat if necessary, pulling the curled leaves apart to inspect them. To prepare kale for cooking, trim the leaves away from the tough stems and discard the stems. If you want the leaves to cook faster, shred or coarsely cut them into strips (the chiffonade method works well).
Steaming and Boiling
To prepare kale for steaming, trim the leaves away from their stems with a knife. Place the leaves in a steamer basket and steam them for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the size of the leaves, or until they become tender and bright green in color. Kale can be boiled for 5 to 15 minutes, or until tender but still bright green.
Stir-Frying and Sautéing
Kale leaves, stripped from their stems and coarsely shredded, can be stir-fried. For best results, parboil them for 5 minutes, then add to a well-oiled stir-fry pan or wok and cook for an additional 5 minutes.
Braising and Stewing
The sturdy nature of kale takes very well to braising and stewing. One method is to braise coarsely chopped kale in stock or water into which butter, garlic, chiles, herbs, salt, and pepper have been added. Bring to a boil, cover, decrease the heat, and simmer over low heat for 8 to 12 minutes, or until the kale is tender.
Kale can also be stewed; use plenty of liquid such as stock or red wine, and simmer over low to medium heat for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring constantly.
Microwaving
Thoroughly wash the kale, then place the leaves, with water still clinging to them, in a microwave-safe dish. Cover, and cook on high power for 7 to 10 minutes, stirring halfway through.
- 2 cups leaves = 2 minutes
- 1¼ pounds = 7 to 10 minutes
Blanching and Freezing
Unlike many greens, kale freezes well. Blanch the leaves first in rapidly boiling water for 3 minutes, then plunge them into ice water for 5 minutes to stop the cooking process. Remove and drain. Squeeze out the excess water and place in zipper-lock freezer or vacuum food sealer-type bags, or freezer containers. Squeeze out any excess air and leave 1 inch of headspace (unless you are using the vacuum sealing method). Frozen kale will keep for up to 8 months at 0°F.
Equivalents, Measures, and Servings
- 1 pound = 2 cups cooked
- 2 cups packed leaves = ½ cup cooked greens
Complementary Herbs, Seasonings, and Foods
Almonds, anchovies, apples, bacon, balsamic vinegar, beans, black pepper, breadcrumbs, butter, caraway seeds, cheese, chiles, chorizo, cinnamon, cream, fenugreek, garlic, ginger, goat cheese, goose, ham, lemon, mint, miso, mustard, nuts, olive oil, onions, pine nuts, pork, potatoes, red pepper, rice, salt pork, sausage, sesame, smoked paprika, smoked salt, soy sauce, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, vinegar, walnuts, winter squash, yams.
Serving Suggestions
- Kale’s ability to maintain its texture and flavor makes it ideal for stews, casseroles, and slow-cooking soups.
- For a quick, nutritious meal, stir-fry kale with chunks of tofu and season with garlic, ginger, and red chiles.
- Add kale to your favorite pasta recipe as a substitute for spinach. Especially good with pine nuts!
- Serve boiled or steamed kale with vinaigrette or sesame dressing.
- Slow-cook kale just as you would collards (see page 431). Kale and pork sausage or ham are natural soul mates.
- Scramble eggs with a bit of cooked kale stirred in instead of spinach.
- Chop up plenty of garlic, fry it crisp in olive oil and salt, and sprinkle it over a bunch of steamed kale.
- For another quick and hearty soup, add cooked kale to canned tomatoes, canned white beans, chicken or vegetable broth, parsley, rosemary, and plenty of onion and garlic to taste.
- Add kale to colcannon, that classic Irish dish with mashed potatoes, leeks, and onions.
- Kale is a natural in highly spiced, complex Indian dishes and curries.
- Kale and sweet potatoes make a hearty, highly nutritious combination that is the perfect side or even main dish for cold winter nights.
- Cream helps temper kale’s assertive character. Try creamed kale in place of creamed spinach, or puree the two into a silky soup.
- A little acid makes a nice counterpoint to the rich green taste of kale. Stew kale with tomatoes or a little vinegar and red wine, and serve it over pasta.
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Simple Kale
Serves 2
1 bunch kale, leaves cut into thin strips and stems discarded
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 thinly sliced green garlic scapes
1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce
- Rinse the kale and toss it, still wet, into a large heated pan. After the kale begins to wilt (about 5 minutes), add the olive oil and green garlic to the pan. Cook until the kale reaches the desired doneness.
- If you are cooking the kale for a longer time, you will need to add a liquid to ensure that the kale does not burn. Sherry, broth, vermouth, green tea, or water all work well. (I like kale lightly cooked, whereas others prefer it well done. The beauty of kale is that it will not become bitter, even if it is cooked for a long time.)
- Right before serving, cook off or drain any remaining liquid and add the tamari or soy sauce to the hot greens. Toss, serve, and enjoy.
— Sarah Libertus, former Featherstone Farm CSA manager
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Ginger Kale
Serves 2 to 4
1 large bunch kale, stems removed and leaves cut into strips
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1 medium onion, chopped
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger or 1 teaspoon dried ginger
Juice of 1 fresh lime
Freshly ground black pepper
- 1. Steam the kale until it wilts slightly.
- 2. In a large skillet or wok, heat the oil and butter. Then add the garlic, onion, and ginger; sauté until the onion turns soft. Toss in the kale. Cover and cook on low heat until the kale is tender.
- 3. Sprinkle with lime juice and pepper to taste.
— FairShare CSA Coalition, From Asparagus to Zucchini
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Raw Kale Salad
Serves 4
Source Note: A less fattening alternative to the typical creamy coleslaw.
1 pound kale, very finely chopped, stems removed
1 medium red onion, diced
3 carrots, grated
1 cup chopped green beans
Mustard-Balsamic Dressing
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon curry powder
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Several fresh purple basil leaves, chopped
Thoroughly mix all of the ingredients together, and toss to evenly coat with the dressing. If you like, top with crumbled bacon, vegetarian bacon bits, Gorgonzola cheese, or toasted slivered almonds.
— Robin Taylor, Featherstone Farm CSA member
From Bounty from the Box: The CSA Farm Cookbook, by Mi Ae Lipe