Solanum tuberosum
One of the planet’s most versatile, staple foods, the potato is the number-one vegetable crop internationally, cultivated in 130 of the world’s 167 countries, and the fourth most-grown food plant, after rice, wheat, and maize. It is also one of the most genetically diverse plants—at least 5,000 varieties were once known to the Andean peoples. Today, only a fraction of these have survived, and scientists at Peru’s International Potato Center are desperately trying to save the remaining rarer species.
The potato is a member of the Solanaceae family, which includes tomatoes, eggplants, and the deadly nightshade. Because of this association, potatoes were not widely trusted as food plants outside of their native Peru and Andes regions until the 17th and 18th centuries. Eventually recognizing their value as a high-starch, high-yielding crop that would thrive in soils too poor to grow other food plants, governments of different countries employed fascinating tactics to entice their populations to consume this unfamiliar tuber. Today, the average American eats about 140 pounds of potatoes annually.
New potatoes are typically dug by hand in July and early August. ese potatoes are so delicate that, to protect their skins, the sand is not washed o . Unlike cured potatoes, which are partially dried to increase their storage life, these newbies need to be refrigerated. Later in the season, mature potatoes are machine-dug and cured as nished potatoes, to be used from September to New Year’s.
About 100 different potato varieties are grown in the United States, but they all t into one of seven major categories: red, white, Russet, yellow, blue-purple, ngerling, and petite. Here are a few varieties you may find in your CSA box:
All Blue
A curious-looking blue (obviously) variety that is sure to attract attention in salads and french fries, All Blue has a deep bluish-purple hue that extends from its skin all the way through the center of its esh. is potato has an excellent avor, wonderful for baking, frying, and mashing. When boiled, the esh turns a lighter blue.
Bintje
is is an extremely popular, creamy, yellow- eshed variety from the Netherlands. Its versatile, waxy esh is excellent for making french fries and potato salads.
Désirée Pink
is variety has pastel pink skin and pale-yellow, almost white esh that has a creamy texture and a mild avor, excellent for boiling, baking, mashing, and roasting, but not for frying.
Langlade White
is is a white-fleshed variety that is a good, all-purpose spud.
Red Norland
These reds are excellent for roasting, boiling (think potato salad), and frying (potato chips, anyone?), but not so good for baking—they are far more soggy and wet than Russets.
Russet Burbank
This large, brown-skinned beauty is the classic baking potato, with a dry, mealy texture that also makes it excellent for boiling and mashing.
Russian Fingerling
Russian Fingerlings are skinny (like a finger) and creamy, with tender skins. Try leaving these unpeeled; doing so will add texture, color, and nutrition. These are terrific for roasting and ideal for potato salad.
Yukon Gold
Yukons are an all-purpose yellow potato with golden, waxy, buttery flesh that is ideal for boiling, baking, and roasting. Their creamy texture makes outstanding mashed potatoes and soups.
History
Potatoes are native to the mountainous Andes regions of Bolivia and Peru in South America, where they have been domesticated for over 7,000 years. The earliest wild potatoes were small, wrinkled, and ex- tremely bitter, which challenged the native peoples to find ways to make these tubers edible. In the 16th century, Spanish explorers introduced the potato to Europe and other countries that they colonized.
Despite their obvious value as a potentially nutritious, easily cul- tivated sustenance crop, potatoes were not welcomed with open arms
in most of Europe. In part this was due to a predictable resistance to strange, new foods and also because of the potato’s kinship to the deadly nightshade. Indeed, contact with the plant’s toxic leaves can produce skin rashes, and before advanced medical science proved otherwise, it was believed that potatoes could spread leprosy. The fact that one of Queen Elizabeth I’s chefs, inexperienced in the way of the potato, mis- takenly cooked and served the poisonous leaves instead of the tubers for a royal banquet certainly did not help.
Even after confusion over which part of the plant to eat was cleared up, much of Europe regarded the tuber with disdain, calling it suitable only for lowly riffraff. However, many governments, wanting to take ad- vantage of this economical food source, practically ordered their citizen- ry to eat these unfamiliar roots or devised ingenious psychological means to overcome public resistance to them.
By the 1800s, potatoes were being widely consumed across Europe. The degree to which humans can be dependent on a single food source was dramatically and tragically demonstrated during the Irish Potato Fam- ine of 1845–49. A blight triggered by severe plant inbreeding caused a total crop failure, which (along with the forced exports of other foodstuffs from Ireland to England) led to the starvation of nearly a million people and a massive immigration of a million more Irish to American shores.
Ironically, despite the potato’s origins in the New World, it was the Scotch-Irish who brought potatoes to America. Today, Idaho is the top potato-growing state in the United States, which annually produces 45.6 billion pounds valued at over $2.6 billion.
Nutrition
Potatoes are unfairly maligned nutritionally, usually because of how they are prepared—deep-fried into french fries, made into potato chips, or mashed and adorned with plenty of high-fat toppings such as butter, cheese, bacon, and sour cream. Actually, potatoes by themselves are extremely healthful for you; they’re high in fiber, low in calories, and rich in vitamins C and B6,
as well as copper, potassium (more than bananas), manganese, and trypto- phan, all for just 132 calories per cup. In addition, researchers have recently identified compounds called kukoamines, which may help lower blood pressure. For maximum nutrients, leave the skins on your potatoes, where most of the tuber’s vitamins, minerals, and fiber reside.
Season
Commercially, potatoes are widely grown and available year-round.
But the peak season for new potatoes at farmers markets and CSAs is from April through July; mature potatoes are at their best from October through April, and are often a staple in winter CSAs.
Selection
Potatoes of any type should be smooth and firm, with no signs of shrivel- ing or soft or green spots.
Storage
New potatoes should be stored in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigera- tor vegetable crisper and used within 1 to 2 weeks. Mature, cured pota- toes do best kept quite cool (around 45°F) in a well-ventilated, dark place that is out of direct sunlight, which will trigger the formation of sprouts. Do not store potatoes next to onions; the latter produces gases that will hasten the spoilage of the former. Mature potatoes may keep for up to 2 months, depending on the temperature and humidity levels.
If the potatoes start to sprout or develop isolated green patches on their skins as a result of being exposed to light and warm temperatures, they may still be edible. If, however, the green portion is widespread throughout the surface of the potato or within its flesh, discard such specimens.
Potatoes can also keep quite well in a basement, root cellar, or other place with the proper cool temperature and lack of humidity (for more information, see “Preserving the Bounty” on page 611).
Trimming and Cleaning
The most preparation that properly stored new and mature potatoes alike usually require is a thorough scrubbing with a vegetable brush—and peeling, if desired. If a potato has begun to sprout, simply cut away the eyes (undeveloped buds) and peel away any green areas on or just under the surface of the skin.
Steaming and Boiling
New and mature potatoes alike take well to steaming; those of average size typically take from 15 to 20 minutes to become tender throughout. Steaming can be a good alternative to boiling, which tends to make potatoes soggy and leach out their flavor. Average-size potatoes usually require 20 to 30 minutes of boiling time, but accurate cooking times are impossible to generalize because they depend on the variety and size of the potato. Always test cooked potatoes with an inserted fork or knife to be sure of their doneness. Also, if the potatoes will be used in a chilled salad, take care to halt the cooking while they are still firm; they will continue to cook for a while after they are removed from the heat.
Stir-Frying and Sautéing
Stir-frying and sautéing are usually not the first cooking methods that come to mind when preparing spuds, but potatoes can be quite delicious prepared this way, either by themselves or in combination with other vegetables. Waxy or new potatoes work better for this purpose than baking types.
For these cooking methods, the potatoes cook faster and more even- ly if they are sliced quite thinly (or julienned, shredded, or cut into small cubes). Soaking potatoes beforehand in cold water helps to leach out their starch and make them cook up more crisply. Some recipes recom- mend parboiling potatoes first.
Stir-fry or sauté on medium-high heat in oil or butter (use 4 to 6 ta- blespoons for every 2 pounds of spuds) for 5 to 7 minutes, or until they reach the desired tenderness and are golden brown. Potatoes cut into rounds or small chunks will take 10 to 15 minutes to cook.
Baking and Roasting
Baked potatoes are an old, trusty standby, and they are also wonderfully simple to prepare. Resist the urge to wrap potatoes in aluminum foil; this only results in steamed potatoes with soggy, wet skins and flesh.
Place washed potatoes in a baking pan or directly on the oven rack, and pierce their skins several times to allow steam to escape (unless you want an explosion to enliven your day). Baking times can vary immense- ly, depending on the potato variety and size, but a large baking-type potato will usually take 40 to 50 minutes in a 425°F oven; new potatoes take nearly as long—typically 30 to 40 minutes. Test by inserting the point of a large, sharp knife into the center of the spud; if the blade meets no resistance, the potato is done.
Roasting potatoes concentrates their flavor, which can be accentu- ated with seasonings. (I personally love roasting potatoes with onions, shallots, or even garlic cloves along with olive oil and chopped fresh rose- mary.) Some cooks recommend parboiling potatoes for 5 minutes first
to soften them, then rubbing them with oil and seasoning, and placing them in a 400°F oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or a 350°F oven for 45 to 55 minutes. Turn them occasionally to prevent scorching.
For a real treat, make crispy potato skins. Scoop out the flesh from baked potatoes, cut the skins into strips, spread butter and sprinkle salt over them, and bake them in a 450°F oven until they turn crisp.
Microwaving
To prepare potatoes for microwaving, puncture them a few times with a fork to prevent explosions; then place them on a paper towel or directly on the oven plate. Microwave on high power. At the end of the cooking time, insert a knife into the center of the potato. If the knife sticks or meets resistance, cook another 1 or 2 minutes, and then let them stand for 5 minutes. They will finish cooking during the standing time. If you’re running behind schedule getting dinner on the table, you can start the spuds in the microwave and partially cook them on high power for 4 minutes. This gives them a good head start. Then bake them at a high temperature in the regular oven to finish them and dry them out.
New Potatoes
- 6 to 8 (about 1 pound), plus 3 tablespoons water = 8 to 12 minutes
- 2 pounds new potatoes in a covered dish with 1⁄4 cup water = 0 to 12 minutes
- 6 small new potatoes in a covered dish with 1⁄4 cup water = 8 to 10 minutes
Mature Potatoes
- 1 to 2 medium potatoes (6 to 8 ounces) = 4 to 6 minutes
- 4 large baking potatoes = 16 to 18 minutes
Blanching and Freezing
Raw potatoes do not respond well to freezing; they will discolor and their texture will deteriorate. Boiled potatoes do not fare much better, unless they are frozen along with other ingredients, as in a stew.
Potatoes to be frozen must be blanched first by boiling them in salted water for 4 to 5 minutes, then plunging them into ice water for 2 min- utes to stop the cooking process. Remove and drain. Package the potatoes in zipper-lock freezer or vacuum food sealer-type bags, or freezer contain- ers. Squeeze out excess air and leave 1⁄2 inch of headspace (unless you are using the vacuum sealing method). Sliced, lightly fried potatoes can also be frozen. Frozen potatoes will keep for up to 6 months at 0°F.
Equivalents, Measures, and Servings
- 3 medium to large potatoes = 13⁄4 cups mashed
- 1 pound = 2 to 3 medium Russet or 6 to 8 new = 3 to 31⁄2 cups chopped, sliced, or cubed = 13⁄4 to 2 cups cooked and mashed
Complementary Herbs, Seasonings, and Foods
Arugula, bacon, basil, beef, butter, cabbage, capers, caviar, cayenne, celery root, chard, cheese, chervil, chicken, chives, cod, corned beef, cream, créme fraîche, dill, duck, fennel, fish, garlic, goose, ham, herring, horse- radish, kale, lamb, leeks, lettuce, lovage, mint, mushrooms, mustard, nutmeg, olives, olive oil, onions, paprika, parsley, parsnips, pepper, pork, sage, salt, sausages, savory, smoked salmon, sour cream, squash, steak, sweet potatoes, thyme, turnips, watercress.
Serving Suggestions
- Combine diced potatoes with green and red peppers, onions, olives, slices of chorizo or other sausage, and diced ham to add to your favorite omelet, scrambled eggs, or frittata for an easy, nutritious, one-dish meal.
- Leftover mashed potatoes can be reincarnated in breads, doughnuts, and cakes.
- Potatoes are one of the traditional fillings for pasties, those little baked pastry shells filled with beef, carrots, onions, turnips, or rutabagas.
- Make hash browns by finely shredding potatoes and frying them, covered, in butter or oil over low heat for 10 minutes. Then remove the cover, turn them over, and continue to fry until they become crispy.
- Enjoy new potatoes boiled simply and topped with butter, salt, cheese, garlic, and dill or other fresh herbs.
- Make oven fries by cutting potatoes into wedges, drizzling them with oil and seasonings of your choice, and baking in a 375°F oven for 30 minutes.
- Use pureed potatoes to thicken soups, or to make that cold leek-potato soup, vichyssoise.
- Finely shred potatoes to make potato latkes or pancakes.
- For new potatoes like Russian Fingerlings, toss the washed potatoes in oil, salt, pepper, and an herb or spice of your choice (rosemary, tarragon, and sage are nice complements, as are smoky paprika and curry powder). Then roast them at 375°F until they are fork-tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.
- Prepare garlic mashed potatoes by pureeing roasted garlic, potatoes, and olive oil together. (This is also fantastic with bacon bits!)
- Potatoes are a key ingredient in one of Sweden’s most popular dishes, Jansson’s Temptation, a casserole of sliced potatoes, onions, and anchovy fillets that is finished with plenty of freshly ground black pepper, butter, and light cream. Tempting as sin, indeed!
- Who could forget shepherd’s pie? This is essentially a savory beef stew covered with a thick layer of mashed potatoes baked to a delicious brownness.
- Oven-roast fingerling potatoes and serve with spicy ketchup, romesco, or sriracha mayonnaise. A great alternative to fries!
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Vegetable Cornmeal Crêpes
Crêpes
1 cup all-purpose flour
1⁄3 cup yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon sugar
21⁄2 teaspoons baking powder
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 13⁄4 cups skim milk
2 tablespoons margarine or butter, melted 1 egg
2 egg whites
Vegetable cooking spray
Filling
1 pound new potatoes, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces, cooked 1 cup sliced mushrooms
1⁄2 medium red bell pepper, chopped
1 to 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
2 small zucchini, coarsely shredded
2 cups broccoli florets, steamed until crisp-tender 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme, or 1⁄2 teaspoon dried thyme
1⁄8 teaspoon salt
1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 6 tablespoons reduced-fat sour cream Parsley sprigs, for garnish
For the Crêpes
- In a medium bowl, mix the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and cheese. Then whisk in the milk, margarine, egg, and egg whites until smooth. (A blender also works very well to thoroughly combine and smooth the batter.) Chill the batter for about 30 minutes before using.
- Spray a crêpe pan or small, 6-inch nonstick skillet with cooking spray; heat over medium heat. Stir the batter gently to recombine the ingredients. Spoon 3 tablespoons of the crêpe batter into the skillet, rotating the pan quickly so that the batter covers the bottom of the pan in a thin layer. Cook over medium heat until the crêpe turns light brown on the bottom. With a spatula, loosen the edges of the crêpe; turn and cook momentarily, until other side is light brown. Because the heavier ingredients will tend to settle to the bottom, stir the batter gently between making each crepe.
- Stack the crêpes between sheets of waxed or parchment paper, and cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel.For the Filling
- In a large skillet, sauté the cooked potatoes, mushrooms, and bell pepper in the oil until the potatoes begin to brown, about 5 minutes.
- Stir in the zucchini and broccoli; sauté until the zucchini turns ten- der, about 3 minutes.
- Stir in the cheese, thyme, salt, and pepper. Spoon the vegetable mix- ture into the center of the crêpes (about 1⁄3 cup per crêpe). Roll the crêpes and place, seam sides down, on the plates.
- Garnish with dollops of sour cream and some parsley.— Produce for Better Health; Fruits & Veggies—More Matters; Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
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Peppery Potato and Zucchini Packets on the Grill
Serves 4
11⁄2 pounds potatoes (about 6 medium), scrubbed and thinly sliced 1 zucchini, thinly sliced
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, or 1⁄2 teaspoon dried thyme
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
- Heat the grill.
- Mix all of the ingredients in a bowl. Divide the mixture among
4 pieces of aluminum foil, placing the mixture near one end. Fold in half to form a packet; then fold the edges to seal completely. - Grill the packets 25 to 30 minutes, turning over once, until the potatoes are tender when pierced.— Featherstone Farm, Rushford, Minnesota
Mom’s Lefse
Makes about 2 dozen
Source Note: Lefse is a traditional soft, thin, Norwegian flatbread that is made with leftover potatoes, flour, butter, and sometimes milk or cream and cooked on a griddle. Special tools are needed to prepare lefse, such as a lefse stick—a long wooden instrument that resembles an extra-long paint stir stick—and a circular lefse board, for rolling out paper-thin sheets.
Traditionally lefse was eaten with lutefisk, a type of preserved cod that is not always a favorite of the younger generation. But there are plenty of other ways to enjoy this Scandinavian favorite—spread ’em with butter, sprinkle them with sugar, or top them with jam. They can be used as a crepe or rolled around all sorts of fillings like a wrap. They can be eaten hot or cold, or eaten on the side with a meal just like bread. The possibilities are endless!
5 cups cooked, mashed or riced potatoes (Russet potatoes are best) 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups all-purpose flour
- While the potatoes are hot, combine them with the salt and butter in a stand mixer or a large bowl. Mix or stir until no lumps remain (think of smooth mashed potatoes).
- Let stand covered until the potatoes are cool, then add the flour. Work the flour into the potatoes by hand, kneading it in thoroughly, or use a stand mixer with the dough hook attached. (You can use a rotary eggbeater as well.)
- Preheat an electric griddle to 450°F (you can also use a 12-inch cast- iron skillet if you don’t have a griddle). Spread out a big bath towel or flour-sack dish towel on the counter or table (avoid using towels that are laundered with scented detergent or dryer sheets).
- Form patties of the dough, each about the size of a tennis ball (a mea- suring cup can be useful for making sure the resulting lefse sheets are all the same size). Place one patty at a time on a generously floured lefse board, pastry cloth, or other large, flat surface. Roll out the dough into a 12-inch circle, making sure it is evenly thin throughout.
- Carefully slide a lefse stick under the middle of the lefse sheet, mak- ing sure to keep the end of the stick down so it doesn’t poke through the dough. Lift the stick gently from the board. Matching the edge of the sheet to the edge of the griddle, lay the sheet down and unroll it onto the griddle in one smooth, quick motion.
- Bake the lefse until small brown spots appear on the underside and bubbles appear on top like a pancake, 1 to 2 minutes. Then flip and repeat on the other side. Lefse cooks very quickly; don’t ignore it too long or it will burn before you know it!
- Transfer the finished lefse onto the towel. You can stack several sheets on top of one another in a shingle pattern, then start another layer and stack those. Then cover them with a thin cloth or another towel, and set them aside to cool.
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When they have completely cooled, fold the lefse in half, then half again so you have a round-edged triangle. Store them in zipper-lock freezer bags. They will keep in the freezer for at least 6 months.
— Erma Schubbe, Hills Centennial Cookbook
Sour Cream Potato Salad
Serves 10 Source
Note: This is a real favorite. It is even better when refrigerated a day ahead to give the flavors a chance to blend.
7 medium red or white potatoes, cooked in their jackets, peeled and sliced (6 cups)
1⁄3 cup Italian salad dressing
3⁄4 cup sliced celery
1⁄3 cup chopped scallions (green onions), white sections and green tops (plus extra for garnish, if desired)
4 hard-cooked eggs
1 cup Miracle Whip
1⁄2 cup sour cream
11⁄2 teaspoons prepared horseradish mustard (or use 1 teaspoon prepared mustard and 1⁄2 teaspoon horseradish)
Salt
Celery seed
1⁄3 cup diced cucumber- While the potato slices are still warm, pour the Italian dressing over them; toss gently to coat, then chill for 2 hours.
- Add the celery and scallion.
- Chop the egg whites and sieve or mash the egg yolks, reserving some yolk for garnish if desired. Combine the remaining sieved yolk with the Miracle Whip, sour cream, and horseradish mustard. Fold into the salad. Add salt and celery seed to taste.
- Chill the salad for at least 2 hours.
- Gently fold in the diced cucumber just before serving. Garnish with the reserved sieved yolk and sliced onion tops.— Matthew George Looper, The Schoenleber Family Cookbook
LaVerne’s Potato Candy
Serves 8
Author Note: This is an unusual, old-fashioned candy recipe that uses potatoes in a very different way, and I’ve included it for historical interest. Note that this candy is super sweet, maybe overly so for some palates, although the peanut butter balances it somewhat. Creamy peanut butter will spread and roll easier than chunky, so use it if possible.
Source Note: As a child this was one of our favorite treats. My mother made potato candy for my siblings and me while we were growing up in the small company railroad and coal town of Delano, Pennsylvania. Potato candy still is often served as a special treat, because everyone likes it. Often it is made for social affairs at the local firehouse and church because it sells well and serves as a good fundraiser. Although it is hard work to make it, it’s worth the effort because kids and adults like its taste.
1 medium, cooked Russet potato (about 6 ounces), mashed 1 tablespoon of butter
Dash of vanilla
11⁄4 pounds powdered sugar, plus more as needed
Peanut butter, preferably salted- Mix the mashed potato with the butter, keeping it to a dough-like consistency, similar to pie dough. (Or instead of mashed potatoes, soften 4 ounces of cream cheese and combine with 1 tablespoon of butter.)
- Add a dash of vanilla and the powdered sugar to the potatoes. Mix well; add more sugar until the mixture becomes quite stiff—about the texture of cookie dough. Cover and chill for about 30 minutes.
- Roll out the dough on wax paper using some flour so the dough will not stick.
- After you have rolled out the dough until it is somewhat smooth and to the desired thickness (about 1⁄4 inch), spread a layer of peanut butter over the top.
- Then roll up the dough like cinnamon rolls, using the wax paper to help lift it. You can also make small individual rolls. Refrigerate until chilled and slice into pieces of candy.
- Enjoy eating this Pennsylvania Dutch treat!— Library of Congress, American Memory Project, Immigration … The Great American Potluck