Rheum rhabarbarum
Rhubarb is a curious phenomenon, for it is one of the few plants of which we consume just the thick stalks, or petioles. Its assertive tartness is caused by large quantities of oxalic acid, which makes the leaves unpalatable and toxic. But the plant’s succulent, juicy stems are delicious, especially when sweetened with plenty of sugar, strawberries, or other fruits in pies, sauces, and jams.
In the Western Hemisphere, rhubarb typically comes into season during April and May, making it one of the first fresh food plants to mature. Thus it was much welcomed in times before produce was available year-round. Rhubarb is a perennial that grows from short, stubby rhizomes into rather large plants with huge leaves that resemble giant, heart-shaped Swiss chard. It is unusual in that it does not breed true from seed, but must be propagated from cuttings of its rootstock.
History
Rhubarb is native to Asia, where the dried root has been used in tra- ditional Chinese medicine for thousands of years. It was so revered for its healing qualities that rhubarb cost ten times as much as cinnamon in France during the mid-1500s. Although rhubarb was consumed as a food in the ancient Middle East, it did not exactly take the European or American gastronomic scene by storm. It remains a specialty food whose popularity waxes and wanes, depending on the public’s attitude toward the vast amount of sweetener necessary to make it palatable.
Well known for its laxative qualities since ancient times, rhubarb was once regarded as a medicinal plant rather than as food. It was not cultivated widely for the kitchen until the 1800s in Europe; apparently the unappetizing leaves rather than the stalks were generally sampled, which may have contributed to its delay in finding culinary enthusiasts.
Nutrition
Rhubarb contains vitamins A, K, folate, calcium, magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, dietary fiber, and a fairly significant amount of lutein, a carotenoid that benefits eye health. A 1-cup serving contains just 25 calories—without all of that added sugar, of course.
Season
As one of the first harvested food plants available in the spring, rhubarb has a highly defined season—mid to late spring, with the best picked in April and May.
Selection
Fresh rhubarb stalks should be firm, crisp, and brightly colored, with no signs of wilting and shriveling. Slender stalks are more tender than thicker ones.
Storage
Wrap unwashed rhubarb stalks in a plastic bag and refrigerate in the vegetable crisper, where it will keep for up to 10 days.
Trimming and Cleaning
Thoroughly wash the stalks under running water to remove all traces of dirt, and trim off the stem ends and discard. Although the skins on rhubarb look quite substantial, they soften with cooking and are quite edible; peeling rhubarb is not common.
Microwaving
Rhubarb can be cooked by microwaving it on high power in a micro- wave-safe dish for about 12 to 14 minutes, or until the rhubarb is tender.
Blanching and Freezing
Save a taste of spring by freezing rhubarb for later enjoyment. Simply cut the raw stalks into 3⁄4-inch pieces, arrange them in a single layer on a baking pan, and place in the freezer. Once they are frozen, place them in zipper-lock freezer or vacuum food sealer-type bags, or freezer containers. Squeeze out any excess air and leave 1⁄2 inch of headspace (unless you are using the vacuum sealing method).
For more tender frozen rhubarb, you can blanch the stalks by boiling them for 1 minute and quickly plunging them in ice water to halt the cooking process. Either leave them whole or cut them into desired lengths; then pack them for the freezer, leaving 11⁄2 inches of headroom if you are using bags. Rhubarb may also be packed in a sugar syrup (see Strawberries on page 95). Frozen rhubarb will keep for up to 6 months at 0°F.
Equivalents, Measures, and Servings
- 1 pound = 3 cups chopped = 2 cups cooked
Complementary Herbs, Seasonings, and Foods
Apples, beef, berries, blackberries, black pepper, blueberries, brandy, brown sugar, butter, cake, cinnamon, citrus, cream, duck, fruit, ginger, grapefruit, honey, ice cream, lemons, limes, maple syrup, oranges, plums, raspberries, sour cream, strawberries, sugar, yogurt.
Serving Suggestions
- Stewed rhubarb, rhubarb sauce, or rhubarb chutney makes a great counter- point to hearty meats like duck, roast beef, corned beef, or Rock Cornish game hen.
- A light, tangy, and sweet rhubarb sauce makes a delectable topping for ice cream, pudding, custard, or pound cake.
- Top your breakfast cereal with sweetened, stewed rhubarb.
- Try English trifle with a twist, substituting rhubarb prepared with cherries or raspberries for the traditional strawberries.
- An early spring treat is a snack of washed, raw rhubarb stems and a bowl of sugar for dipping. As simple as can be, on a warm spring day.
- Add a sophisticated touch to stewed rhubarb or rhubarb sauces with the addition of fruit-flavored liqueurs such as orange liqueur, kirsch, melon liqueur, or apple schnapps. Or try brandy, port wine, or rosewater.
- Combine rhubarb with kumquats or oranges for a tasty chutney.
- Add very thin slices of rhubarb to spring soups or salads, or anywhere a bit of tartness is welcome.
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Easy-As-Pie Rhubarb Pie
Makes one 9-inch pie
1 unbaked 9-inch piecrust, plus extra for top crust or lattice, if desired
4 cups diced rhubarb stalks
1⁄4 cup flour
11⁄4 cups sugar
1 tablespoon butter, melted
4 tablespoons dry tapioca mix (Jell-O has the finest texture, but other brands work fine if you don’t mind larger tapioca balls)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Cinnamon
Put the bottom piecrust into a 9-inch pie pan. If using a frozen pre- pared shell, allow to thaw at room temperature for about 15 minutes.
Mix all of the remaining ingredients together and let them stand for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Pour the filling into the piecrust and cover with a top crust or lattice, if using. Sprinkle with cinnamon.
Bake for 10 minutes at 450°F, then decrease the heat to 350°F and continue to bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the filling is bubbly.
Cooking Note: If you prefer, you may use a graham cracker crust.
— Rich Hoyle
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Rhubarb Crisp
Serves 6 to 8
6 to 8 cups thinly sliced and chopped rhubarb (leave it unpeeled) 11⁄2 cups granulated sugar
2 tablespoons flour
2 to 3 teaspoons cinnamon
Pinch of salt
Topping
3⁄4 cup oatmeal
1⁄2 cup unbleached flour 1⁄4 cup whole wheat flour 1⁄2 cup brown sugar
1⁄2 cup chopped walnuts
2 tablespoons ground golden flaxseeds or wheat germ (optional)
1⁄4 teaspoon baking soda
1⁄4 teaspoon baking powder
1⁄3 cup melted butter
- Preheat the oven to 350°F.
- Butter a 9-by-13-inch pan. In a large bowl, mix together the rhu- barb, sugar, flour, cinnamon, and salt. Place the rhubarb mixture in the pan.
- Combine the topping ingredients in a small bowl, adding the butter last. Mix well, then spread the topping mixture over the rhubarb. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until bubbling.
— Robin Taylor, Featherstone Farm CSA member
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Balsamic Rhubarb Compote
Serves 4
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2⁄3 cup sugar
3⁄4 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger
2 stalks fresh rhubarb, leaves discarded, ends trimmed, and stalks cut crosswise into 1⁄4-inch-thick slices, or 2 cups frozen sliced rhubarb, thawed, liquid reserved
- In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, simmer the vinegar with the sugar and ginger, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Then stir in the rhubarb (with reserved liquid if using frozen).
- If you are using fresh rhubarb, simmer it until it is crisp-tender, about 1 minute, then use a slotted spoon to transfer it to a bowl, keeping the liquid behind in the pan. If you are using frozen rhubarb, transfer the rhubarb to a bowl as soon as it returns to a simmer (don’t continue cooking it), also keeping the liquid behind in the pan.
- Simmer the liquid until it thickens slightly, about 5 minutes, and then remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the rhubarb. Serve the compote warm or at room temperature.
— Produce for Better Health; Fruits & Veggies—More Matters; Centers for Disease Control and Prevention